They are still there, but instead DxO leads with the filters themselves, part of the original ‘Camera Kit’ mode but now brought to the fore, which is what most more experienced editors will want to work with. The filters, tools and presets themselves are largely the same, but what DxO has done is radically update the user interface to bring it in line with the other Nik plug-ins and also de-clutter Google’s original ‘camera’ categories. If you don’t want the fuss and you’re happy with regular ‘destructive’ editing, you can still work with regular JPEG and TIFF images. It means working with some pretty large double-size TIFF files, but they contain both the original image, the edited version and the Analog Efex Pro editing instructions, so you can pick up where you left off and re-edit your images without having to start again. Until the release of Nik Collection 5, it really had any significant changes since DxO took over the Nik Collection, although with Nik Collection 3 it did benefit from DxO’s new non-destructive workflow using the ‘multipage’ TIFF format. You can select a preset look and stop there, select a preset and then modify its adjustments, or start from a blank canvas and choose your own filters and effects. It follows the same principle as the rest by offering a selection of preset image effects which are constructed using individual components like film effects, borders, vignettes and more. And, if you’re into retro effects, it’s perhaps the most interesting in the whole Nik Collection. There’s some crossover with the ‘Dirt & Scratches’ filter (which I’m not using this time), and again you’ll need to spend a little time with the different styles to see which one you like best – use the Strength slider in the tools panel on the right if the effect isn’t strong enough.Analog Efex Pro was the only Nik Collection plug-in added under Google’s ownership. This creates the appearance of various textured, corroded or stained glass plates. 07 Photo Plateįinally, I’m going to add the Photo Plate effect. Light leaks take a little more trial and error because you really can’t tell how the ‘leaks’ are going to interact with the picture until you try them out. Here again I can choose from different types of light leak with the pop-up menu in the panel in the right sidebar, then click on a thumbnail to see the effect on the image. The Frames panel has a pop-up menu for different frame types, and I’ve gone for one of the ‘Film Strip’ frame effects. They’re combined ‘in parallel’ rather than one after the other. You can re-edit these effects at any time, and they’re always stacked in the same order, by the way, so you don’t have to worry about which one you do first. ![]() Again, the right sidebar now displays the Frames panel, with the Film Type and Bokeh panels collapsed. ![]() Next, I’ve added the Frames effect from the Camera Kit panel on the left. Over in the Bokeh panel on the right I can use the Blur Slider to get just the right amount of defocusing around the edges. I’ve decided the radiator grille and headlamps are the focal point for this picture, so I’ve dragged the bokeh gadget to the centre of the grille, elongated it vertically and narrowed the sides. You need to try to image where the plane of focus would be if the picture had been shot on a camera with limited depth of field. The Bokeh effect displays an on-screen gadget for controlling the shape, position and fade/feather for the blur. (The Film Type panel is collapsed, but I can click on it to open it again if I want to make any changes.) Now I’ve added the Bokeh effect (circled) in the Camera Kit panel on the left, and the Bokeh tools panel now appears in the right sidebar.
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